Monday, December 13, 2010

When Good Perfume Goes Bad...


Note: This post started as sort of a little inside joke. I searched wikianswers looking for the answer to one of life's little puzzles, how to explain to my readers the exact smell of bad (as in spoiled) perfume. Despite the topic, I actually love the photo above- it seems so playful and sweet; really, you can just tell everything is completely lovely, smelling of roses and not at all like... rotten calendula flowers!

But yes, oddly that's exactly how perfume smells when it's turned rotten- like funky Calendula. You probably knew that already... don't I often complain right here on these pages about how the odor of marigolds can turn a perfectly good perfume bad? Now never mind that Calendula are actually pot marigolds, and not proper tagetes; there is a smell connection!


Calendula contains all sorts of awful sounding chemicals like flavonol glycosides, triterpene oligoglycosides, oleanane-type triterpene glycosides, saponins, and sesquiterpene glucosides. Yikes! Many other flowers have various terpene constituents as well.  A little reminisce of orangic chemistry reminds me that terpenes are very unstable. As they oxidize, rancid smelling substances are formed. Calendula already smells intensely sharp and herbaceous. Add some rancid terpenes and you're going to get something pretty awful smelling. 

Vitamin e is recommended to prevent essential flower oil from spoiling but it wouldn't do at all, popping those little capsules into our aging vintage perfumes, would it? How're you supposed to get them in there, for one thing?



No matter what causes the particular smell, it is peculiar. Sometimes perfumes go a bit flat, or smell musty, or loose their top, even their middle notes- all of that is or can be acceptable. The perfume will still be wearble or interesting or good, in degrees. But that certain air of death I'm referring to always smells the same. Fried- but not like scorched wood. It's a little more toxic, like chemicals burning or smoking wires. At least I've learned to pick it up quickly and surely at first whiff. Don't laugh. When I was first smelling many unfamiliar vintage perfumes and occasionally picking up this characteristic sourness, I wondered, "What is this terrible note?" But catching it on the breath of a dying Mitsouko, and comparing it to a healthy example, nailed the case down for me. 



Oddly this kind of sickness in perfumes is not as common as you might think. Out of say 1000 older bottles maybe only 10 or less will be affected. Or could be every perfume in a case. Depends. And it isn't associated strictly with age. The oldest perfumes seem 'nigh on to immune yet it happens to relatively young perfumes if conditions are right. Likewise dark color has nothing to do with it- but an off color (unlike others of similar age) merits further investigation. Exposure to light/heat, and repeated heating and cooling seems to be at the root of the problem, not- as is often stated- exposure to air which can actually be a cure of sorts.


I discovered that accidentally, leaving a turned perfume open over night to evaporate and checking it in the morning to find it had mellowed completely.  If you find the harsh odor seems to settle down as the perfume wears, you can probably save it by opening the fragrance up to the air to let it breathe.

I'd like to quote FiveoaksBouquet from a Perfume of Life discussion on the topic of checking out spoiled perfumes: "One thing: have you tried washing around the nozzle? Sometimes it's oxidized perfume collected around and in the nozzle that is bad and the juice in the bottle can still be good. If you haven't tried that, I would suggest it, before giving up completely and then spritz a few spritzes off to clear any residue. Perhaps after that the rest will be good."

Colonia, also in a thread from POL agrees: "Besides washing the spray nozzle, try spraying the fume several (8-10) times into the sink not only to clear the nozzle, but also to clear what is in the little plastic spray tube. With a non-spray bottle, try airing out the fragrance by leaving it open for a day or so to allow old fumes to evaporate off. Gently swish around the contents every few hours. Both of the above have salvaged older fragrances for me."

The ultimate test after trying all of the above is to give the 'fume a skin or fabric trial. If the taint is detectable to you, even faintly, are you willing to wear it? Like mildew odor on towels that were left a little damp in the drier over night, even a trace of it drives me crazy. Turned perfume is about as useful as salt that's lost it's savor.


Can you even toss something like that into the trash? Or shouldn't it really be burned? An environmental blog recommended that we simply leave our rotten perfume out in the open until most of it evaporates so then you can just recycle the glass and plastic parts. But if it just dissipates and settles into the air and fabrics of your home or yard how is that good? Yet another suggestion: just rinse it down the sink. Now you know that it's probably not good for our water supply - although it many not be any worse than all the other stuff that we pour down our sinks.  But please just don't pass it along to someone who will try to dump it on sell it to someone else. Like me (or you)...


Enough said!



The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

image: bibi lartigue On Our Honeymoom by jacques henri lartigue
image: Horizonherbs
image:smoking bottle by mother_flickr 
image: chypre-perfumes.blogspot.com
image: breathe minute dance.ohio-statedance.edu 
image: spray at pocketchange.com
image: boingboing.net

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Vintage Perfume Trends, More Thoughts on Ebay...

image: anatomyofaclassic.com

Sorry about the disappearing &reappearing post- the dear husband accidentally published it for me before it was edited or ready to go, when I got up from the computer to run to the grocery store!

If you read here regularly, strap in 'cause we're going for a bumpy ride over some growingly familiar topics. You see, I'm on a mini vintage perfume tirade. You might already know that I've begun selling off many of my old perfumes and I won't lie, I still face the daily temptation to add a new bottle to replace each one I let go. Yet for this aspiring minimalist, too much of a good thing become just plain old too much. As I've been combing through second-hand perfumes and studying the Internet side of buying and selling them, I've noticed that many other people are also letting go of their perfume collections these days.

You probably don't need to read a copy of Time magazine to know that our economy is still seriously lagging. So I can understand why someone might need to get rid of their 'things'... but where are those old bottles floating off to? And what does it mean for the average vintage perfumista-collector, now that all of this second hand perfume is coming onto the market?

I first began to realize last year that if you are ever going to, now is actually the time to buy, buy, buy vintage perfumes. Luckily there seem to be loads of vintage perfumes pouring out of the nooks and crannies of old houses and storage lockers everywhere, popping up for sale, available to nearly anyone with an Internet connection. At least in the US, this is still true.

Take for example the case of a rare vintage perfume like F. Millot's Bois Precieux. Bois Precieux isn't as iconic as Chanel's Bois des Iles- which also continues to set records as one of the most in-demand and highest selling vintage commercial perfumes out there- but then it ain't exactly chopped liver, either. However, the price for such a fine perfume as Millot's BP has fallen precipitously in the past year or so. In early 2009, a 1/4 ounce sealed bottle fetched nearly $225 dollars. Today, you can find a 1/2 ounce bottle of the same perfume being offered for $150- and it may not even sell at that price!

But vintage perfumes are actually quite rare things. And whatever is left, is rapidly being pulled out of circulation. If Octavian's experience in France-- where now French consumers apparently aren't going to be able to purchase their classic, old Dior and Chanel perfumes via Ebay-- is any indication of trends to come here, then we have to ask ourselves how long we'll be able to buy second-hand/vintage perfume over the Internet and especially from Ebay?

What would you do if overnight, you could no longer purchase (or list for sale, you sellers) vintage perfumes on Ebay? Ebay and the Internet in general has been a great equalizer in the world of vintage perfume. Vintage perfume is not just for the experts who have access to Osmothèque anymore. As it stands right now, everyday folks who have the passion can get right into the collecting game. But maybe not for long.

image: thecanaryreport.com

You see, if IFRA, L'Oreal and others have their way, then you won't be able to buy or sell vintage or indie perfumes through any of the high-volume channels - After all, why would you buy the Big Boys scores and scores of new perfume releases when you can still get marvelous old classics like Chanel's authentic version of Cuir de Russie for the same $$$ as their tepid inferior new leather scent?

 image: Fumee d' amber gris
John Singer Sargent, 1880

The older scents not only have the outlaw luxury appeal of forbidden, rare and exotic essences that are not even harvested much less used anymore. But more importantly, they smell better than the new stuff.  Look at the prices of anything containing genuine vintage Ambergris versus the new and supposedly improved Ambroxan and you'll see where true quality and luxury lie. Would they ever use such a heavy hand to restrict sales in the US as they've done in France? I think likely sooner or later, someone may try. So get out your plastic, start up your engines and go shopping while you still can!

 The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

Friday, December 10, 2010

SOTD: Prince Matchabelli Beloved Cologne Parfumee

image: Marilyn by Eve Arnold, 1955

Boy, did Prince Matchabelli ever make some great smelling perfumes. Today I'm wearing another of his fragrances and as much I enjoyed wearing his lilac scent, I'm even more in love with this 1950 release, called appropriately... "Beloved".

Beloved was originally advertised as being rich, warm whisper of youth for the mature woman. Compared by some reviewers over at Basenotes to La Nuit by Paco Rabanne, it opens as a juicy orange, followed by jasmine, rose and amber. And while I'm not yet able to define it precisely the scent has an incense note, one that I associate with many vintage perfumes. But what really sets it apart to me is the strong clear civet note. I smell it immediately and throughout wearing. It is strong and yet so well melded to the spice and amber that is escapes perception as dirty. At the dry-down, the civet and amber, clinging to a dash of beeswax, is all that I smell. People who adore Shocking, Youth Dew and Royal Secret should like this scent. But I recommend it most to those of you interested in adding a terrific vintage "animal" scent to your wardrobe, for not a whole lot of bucks.

 image: national geographic

Note: This perfume is always called "Cologne Parfumee"- it is actually part of the title "Beloved Cologne Parfumee". I see some newer looking bottles, but I'd try to get something in a crown shaped bottle or if you know Matchabelli, one of their 1950s style. Beloved originally came in the Robin's Egg Blue Crown Bottle.

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Prince Matchabelli Duchess of York Perfume



For the past couple of days I've been wearing The Duchess of York by Prince Matchabelli. Released in 1934 it is a beautiful Lilac scent, a soliflore. We have a large blue lilac in our back yard and although it's been months since its bloomed, this perfume smells just like its freshly picked blossoms. Kaleidoscopic in its way, lilac offers up ever-changing facets, smelling to me of lily of the valley and jasmine by turns. It also oscillates between polleny/spicy and sharp/soft. Somehow it manages to smell very purple but it is nothing at all like the more familiar (by today's perfumers) purple reference flowers violet, and/or iris.

One of the things I love about smelling lilac is that my nose never seems to tire of or forget its around, so I keep smelling it again and again throughout the day. Lilac is actually kind of an old-fashioned scent by now. You hardly smell someone wearing lilac scent (yet it's really, really pretty to wear as a perfume). A few years back, I bought an attar of lilac (I'd never heard of it before. I have no idea if it was an actual attar, but I doubt it...) Anyway, it smelled really good- so heady, spicy yet lushly floral and with something dark about it, too. Very compelling, and because it has become unusual again it could make a good choice for a signature scent.

Lilac actually suffered from being too popular. Over-used by the soap and chemical industry to scent 'functional' products like bathroom air-fresheners and laundry detergent, by 1950s people no longer considered the scent so special. There's nothing like pairing the essence of a beautiful flower with a bleak little spot that reeks of ammonia cakes, scouring powders and worse to ruin it.

Luckily, I missed out on any negative lilac associations and realize it makes a remarkable smelling perfume. If you are looking for gorgeous vintage lilac scent to try, Duchess of York is a great choice. You can actually find it if you look around a bit, just shop around for a bottle in good condition and try to get a good deal on the price. BTW: If you collect the colored crown bottles, Duchess of York came in the periwinkle blue version.
 




In any form or bottle, it is highly recommended!

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

image of
Blue Lilac from the Morton Arboretum
Prince Matchabelli bottle from live auctioneers.com
Girl with Lilacs from betterbaking.com

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

The Vintage Perfume Vault Blog is 2 years old... Warning: Not a Perfume Post

image: pigeonhole.com

This is anniversary time for tvpv; it's been two years already and it really seems like only yesterday I was just trying to figure out how to put up a blog, or whatever the correct verbiage is... Anyway, I've learned a ton over the weeks, months and now going on years. Fragrance blogging has changed a lot in the time- when I began it was out of frustration. There were perfume blogs, only just a few compared to now.  And for the most part people weren't talking about the perfumes I cared about, or they were only mentioned in passing. So I just decided to heck with it, I'll do it. Of course, then I discovered a few people had been writing about the history of our scented world, expertly, for some time. And rapidly, many new voices joined in around me. I was a rank beginner and at times I've treated the blog more like an online diary than something created for others to read.

But in the end it's become something for others to read.  There are so many people who know more than I do, or have better/other connections (or libraries). And I suck at establishing those warm effusive relationships that seem to be the hallmark of some other blogs. So why have I stuck around? Because I enjoy it. I continue to love discovering and writing about perfume. And of course, I want to share what I discover with others and hear from them what they know.

I think as blogging and the Internet have changed, I've discovered that there is room for all sorts of blogs. Some aim to educate, some to inform, others to titillate, and some to entertain. Mine is sort of a mash-up depending on my mood and the subject at hand. I don't think you have to stick with entirely one area either. Blogs can be blissfully, nearly rule free. But the blog-o-sphere as a whole continues to change and evolve daily. Some of my old favorite blogs have died down or seem to be in the process of doing so as we speak and so many super-cool new blogs keep popping up.

And as for the Vault? Although I cringe at the naivete of some of my earlier posts and yes, I've made some missteps, I don't plan to stop writing any time soon so keep coming back and we'll grow (older) together. And the world of perfume being what it is, you know we'll always have plenty to talk about.

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Royal Copenhagen & Vintage SWANK Colognes

image: dreamagic

Swank colognes were de rigueur for the well groomed swinger circa 1960s. Today I'm looking at a johnny come lately 1970 Swank release: Royal Copenhagen. All burly sailing imagery aside, Royal Copenhagen is an enigmatic, complex fragrance camped firmly in unisex territory.

image from Vintage Ad Browser

Top notes are aldehydes, lime, lavender, green notes, bergamot, cardamom and lemon; Middle notes are carnation, patchouli, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, cedar and rose;
Base notes are honey, Tonka bean, amber, musk, oak moss, vanilla, heliotrope and tobacco.

Can you believe this deliciousness was originally made just for men? Maybe so, if you take a look at this Royal Copenhagen porcelain figurine! The original Royal Copenhagen cologne is so yummy many women would enjoy not only smelling but wearing it.

image: Royal Copenhagen Pan Kissing Maiden figurine box, circa 1930
from Shapiroauctioneers.com

Alas Royal Copenhagen was reformulated and the new version, has been out for years now. It is by most accounts a bitter, pale shadow of the original.  But if you like powdery scents with a kick of spice and a ton of attitude it's worth seeking this one out in original vintage form. It is a cologne so if you do try it, be sure to apply liberally. It also helps to splash a bit onto your scarf or blouse and allow it some time to develop before you judge it. On me it evolves first into a musky tobacco blossom scent and then dries down to a gently spiced and powdered leather. I only wish it were much stronger, in which case I might make comparisons to Habanita.

image of "original" Swank Royal Copenhagen, eurofinegifts at Ebay
 
The juice in my bottle has grayed with age and that's the color you want to see- avoid anything that looks bright blue. Despite its age, I can still pick out the citrus fruits, cardamom, aldehydes, carnation, cedar, musk, vanilla, amber, patchouli, tobacco and oakmoss notes. The original glass bottle version came with the cool tri-color aqua, white and royal blue metal sleeve over a plastic screw-on cap, topped with a white button bearing the image of a blue lion. There may also be a few examples of original Swank formula found in vintage solid silver tone bottles with silver tops as well. Look carefully as the newer glass bottles do not have the white button with the lion on top.
image: newer version, googled

Newer Royal Copenhagen cologne is often attributed to a maker of the same name, i.e., Royal Copenhagen. Only older bottles indicate RC as made by SWANK. Swank also distributed (and perhaps made?) the popular 1950s-1970s classics Jade East, Jade Gold, Jade East Coral and Jade East Golden Lime, any of which I've happened across have also smelled quite nicely.





all images of Jade East colognes from Found in Mom's Basement

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Germaine Monteil Champagne Perfume

image: 1891French Champagne Poster from postersplease.blogspot.com

The French may indeed love their wine but more than that they love their culture. And what better exemplifies the French culture than Champagne? The bubbly wine was invented there (although this fact is disputed,) and through no small effort, the name has been jealously guarded by the French for hundreds of years.  Of all the wines, none except Champagne has been able to capture the attention of perfumers. After all we never see perfumes named after Gewürztraminer; however that is a scent I would love to smell!

image: mes-parfums
 Yves Saint Laurent may have created the most famous version but YSL wasn't the first modern perfume named after Champagne. As far as I know that honor goes to the House of Caron. Their Royal Bain de Champagne was released in 1941, but it quietly became Royal Bain de Caron after the famously jealous French Champagne makers applied some pressure. YSL released their Champagne perfume years later in 1993. A major launch for YSL and a major loss as well since after a very public battle with the French Champagne makers ensued, the name Champagne had to be changed to Yvresse.

But ten years earlier and quite under the radar of the French, Germain Monteil released her own perfume bearing the name Champagne. Released in 1983 with publicized notes of bergamot, peach, champagne, jasmine, and lotus, Champagne was hardly Germaine's first foray into the world of fragrance...

image: loc.gov

Germain Monteil was French by birth but came to America in the early 1920s. She arrived at a time when New York offered a world of dazzling possibilities. It was the age of Jazz. The explosion of industry had changed the landscape of the city. During the day, Wall Street helped forge many of America's largest fortunes but nights were spent in uber-chic underground drinking clubs where musicians experimented with exotic new forms and intoxicating smoke of many varieties filled the air.  Money flowed freely. Rich society ladies and wives of industrial magnates flocked to visit the exclusive shops popping up left and right in New York. They came looking for new dresses inspired by the sporty, provocative styles worn by the flapper party girl images they saw in movies and if they were more daring, out and about town!


 image: 1920s "It" girls Louise Brooks and Clara Bow from glamourdaze

image: Marion Davies 1928 from talkieking.blogspot.com

Along with Germaine was a whole family of talented female fashion designers who came into this heady atmosphere of 1920s New York. Among her contemporaries were Nettie Rosenstein (credited with inventing the concept of the Little Black Dress), Hattie Carnegie, Lilly Dache (married Jean Despres, the head of Coty) , and Elizabeth Arden. Not coincidentally, all of these women were drawn to, and had created for or by them many  of the best 20th century American perfumes.

 Germaine Monteil South Seas Sheath gown
circa 1940
 image:keithdelellis gallery

Like most of the others, Monteil began her career as a dressmaker. She worked for other people at first and quickly became popular among New York's most elite clientele. She was known for her deft use of patterns and flattering fit-and-flare skirts. However she was also a gifted cosmetician and her artistic flare served her well in creating many successful make-up color and scent schemes to accompany her designs. In 1936 Monteil opened her own design house and in the same year, the Germaine Monteil Cosmetiques Corp. She won a Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1938- the first year the awards were given. But by the early 1940s Monteil's cosmetics business had become so successful and lucrative that she chose to stop designing altogether and concentrate her efforts there.

image: 1939 ad for Noel

Her first fragrance- Noel was released in 1940, above is a Noel magazine ad from Christmas 1939. The success of Noel encouraged her to follow up with Frou Frou, New Love, Nostalgia and the very successful Laughter, all released in 1941. In 1949 Rigolade (a re-orchestrated and renamed Laughter) was released followed by Fleur Savage (1953) and the best selling, Youth-Dew like Royal Secret in 1958. In the 60s Monteil released Galore followed by Regime, the popular Bakir and Germaine, which all came out in the 70s. L'Eau d' Monteil (1995) was her last release; it was discontinued in 2005. There are several rare mid 20th century Monteil perfumes released in the 1950s for which we have no firm dates. Maybe with time more will be added to the list: Nouvel Amour, Realm and Soir de Fete (most of the dates from my own research accord to those from Perfume Intelligence). 

above images: Ebay sellers 237 & ggardenour

Many people love also Germaine Monteil for her cosmetics, too. Her lipstick colors were a step ahead most drug store name brands and her facial creams had legions of loyal fans. Her fragrances have always been well loved but less widely distributed than some others. All are now discontinued and many are worthy of collecting. Royal Secret (1958) and Bakir (1975) are the ones many collectors are most likely to come across most frequently. Both are highly recommended if you love orientals with good bones. I also see Galore (1964) out there, Regime and Germaine too but I'm not sure how widely sought after these last two are... Laughter (1941) was a fan favorite during its day but of course it is much harder to find now, and Champagne (1983) has become quite rare. Champagne is still keenly pursued by fans of the fragrance.


image: Champagne eau de toilette, mini. Priced 75$ from Ebay seller d-v-4 

image of Regime: Ebay seller Conniecape

image: Galore from Ebay seller asense4scents

image: Germaine from Ebay seller  asense4scents

I will only add my one little piece of information to the perfume history of Germaine Monteil's Champagne- despite what you may read in other places, GM Champagne was not released as just an Eau De Toilette. It was made in pure perfume form, as I have in my collection a bottle of it. As you see, the bottle is crescent shouldered black glass, with an applied gold neck band and a minimalist art-deco style crystal stopper, a ball of black glass surrounded by a crystal halo that echoes the bottle silhouette, accented with one applied gold small star.

above images: thevintageperfumevault.blogspot.com

The scent is a soft floral. My scent impressions: It opens with a whiff of fruit (soft/sour like apricot against grape skin) and something sweet more like port or brandy than Champagne at first. This all mellows quickly as a floral heart with a pleasingly sharp aspect emerges. It reminds me at this point of Chamade even though it does not smell similar to it at all. Given it has lotus you might expect a watery feel but it seems to have more a powdery interpretation instead. Two little secrets give Champagne its life: a sharp greenness, like the sting or fizz of bubbles and beneath the flowers, a thin ribbon of something resinous (cinnamon?) which radiates warmth, like the effect of alcohol. The dry down on my skin is surprisingly gracious- refined yet intimate, distinctly soapy but mildly floral, like just washed naked skin. 

Prices for GM's Champagne seem to be sky-high, and when found it is only the Eau de Toilette strength... So I wanted to do something special for TVPV readers. It's a nice way to nice to kick off December and pour out a little bit of extra Christmas love from the 'Vault:

I am auctioning off 1/4 fluid ounce of the very rare pure perfume version of Germaine Monteil's Champagne on Ebay this upcoming week (the auction will start this evening December 5, 2010). 

If the winner is a reader of TVPV, I will discount 20% off the final selling price of the perfume, i.e. if the perfume sells for $100, you will only be billed $80. 

How it works:
If you win the auction, just let me know you're a reader of this blog by sending me a message via the "ask the seller a question" feature on Ebay rather than commenting here. Mention the blog and we'll deduct the 20% from the selling price.

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Watch out for those old Guerlain bottles...

image: skybluepink

 Disclaimer: I am not a Guerlain expert, nor have I ever been...

But who doesn't love a good Guerlain? Even hearing the name makes me go a little wiggly-jiggly in the knees. From the pretty shiny bobbles that populate the makeup counter to the gallons of amber juices swirling around inside of precious crystal flacons, it's all good. Really good.

And there's nothing better in the whole world then something like this:

 image: another travel guide

But Guerlain isn't just my mother's perfume, it's everyone's mother's perfume and therein lies a problem. If you're thinking about getting into collecting vintage Guerlain perfumes, know this--  everyone else is looking for vintage Guerlain perfumes, too. And for some (insane, ungodly) reason nearly all of them are perfectly willing to pay way, way more than you would normally ever think about spending on perfume. Just know that going into the whole thing.

image: monsieugguerlain

Part of Guerlain's mystique may come from the grand story about their most cherished (vintage, pre LVMH) fragrances- Jicky 1889, Mitsouko 1919, Shalimar 1926 and Chamade 1969- that they were all created by Guerlain men for the women they loved. Each one is indeed like a love story, a masterpiece.

But be prepared because Guerlain will break your heart- it's the Guerlain curse. You haven't heard of the curse, you say. Well, stick around, try a few. It won't be long before you will find one, the one most likely and you'll have decided that you either a.) have to have it, but can't find or can't afford (see above) it or b.) can't wear it, but feel you have to be able to wear it. With Guerlain it always comes down to one of those two cases.

Take me, for example. Like many vintage perfumistas, I've decided.  Mitsouko is the Guerlain for me. In fact it is 'the one'- the one perfume I'd wear if I couldn't ever wear any other perfume, ever; the one I'd grab if the house was on fire... But there's a problem: it's too darned popular. Why, it's almost a cliche... predictable at the very least. But I love it, it smells- well, just perfect. Plus they just ain't makin' it like they used to.... so I'm compelled to pursue it, endlessly... searching, searching for the all too rare bottle of that certain vintage to pop up. So there you have it- my personal Guerlain heartbreak...

image: vetivresse

Then you'll find those who really feel they should be in love with Shalimar. Don't ask me why so many people say they cannot wear it... must be they're only trying the vintage cologne versions, which to tell the truth can tend to go a little sour on the leather.  But I think in its present condition LVMH has tamed this beast entirely. I can't imagine anyone not being able to wear the newer Shalimar versions (reformulations/flankers, whatever you call them). It's been neatly neutered- all fluff and pure sweetness, no teeth, no claws- but I'll admit, I love it.

image: dailymail.uk

I hope you decide not to take my tongue in cheek sour grapes to heart... and just to prove that I love y'all, let me give you a little tip about collecting those vintage Guerlain perfumes that beginners may not know- many of the older spray bottles can be unscrewed. I hate to have to say it- but you have to be smart about collecting- that means they could potentially be refilled or otherwise compromised. I'm not saying avoid those bottles altogether, I'm just saying you should know Guerlain has favored using these 'refillable' bottles for quite some time. Make sure you know how a certain perfume is supposed to smell and don't let one of these bottles be your first experience with trying a scent.

The Guerlain cologne bottle style below (with the pleats and cute little 'hips') circa 1960s-1980s is one example of the screw-off top and removable atomizer stick (leaving the mouth of the jar open)...



And there are squatty black plastic shouldered, fluted bottles very like the red shouldered one shown below, which also unscrew and can be refilled (I'm not sure about dates for this one):


If there are these two, there are likely to be others. Ironically, the blue and white decorated tin canister bottle, which is often referred to as refillable, is NOT refillable in the same, open and pour way.

The cartridges that fit into those bottles are sealed and cannot be easily refilled, diluted etc... just popped in and out. So, I quite like finding cologne in those bottles. Of course, I really like to find sealed, corded bottles like the one below, whenever possible:

And just a quick aside - I really like Guerlain's colognes, eau de toilettes and eau de cologne formulas. The vintage versions of these juices are often stronger and more beautiful than other makers pure perfume versions. Thanks to the beautiful quality of these creations you don't always have to have the pure perfume in order to get a great sillage and sensory experience.

The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.

images: all the little thumbnails are from ebay auctions