tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30118404578729116812024-03-15T18:09:42.358-07:00The Vintage Perfume VaultWhere the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.comBlogger198125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-13621956819518289812011-06-03T12:35:00.000-07:002011-06-03T16:01:33.084-07:00Vintage Perfume Review: Lentheric 12<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2COw35wBUro/Tekyv5mnIqI/AAAAAAAACC4/pvASt5dNBFI/s1600/007+lentheric+perfume+advert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2COw35wBUro/Tekyv5mnIqI/AAAAAAAACC4/pvASt5dNBFI/s320/007+lentheric+perfume+advert.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>Lentheric 12 was released around 1965 and discontinued probably by about 1975. Those dates from my own research. Perfume Intelligence only gives a release date of 1956. <br />
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The nose is - well, no one seems to know for this one...<br />
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The Lentheric story has been told here before but for those whose memory is short: Guillaume Lenthéric established his perfume salon at Saint-Honoré in Paris, 1875. Although he began his career as a hairdresser, over time Lenthéric expanded into millinery accessories and perfume. Originally he only made up fragrances for some of his most valued customers but when Lentheric's perfumes began to draw even more attention than his lofty coifs, Parfums Lentheric was created. Despite his death in 1912, Parfums Lentheric lived on and approximately 140 fragrances were released from the house between the years of 1910 to 1964. You can see an alternative and more detailed history <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/NUMERO-12-au-parfum-Bouquet-Lentheric-8-oz-/130490595575?pt=fragrance&hash=item1e61d878f7">here</a> (quoted below):<br />
<blockquote><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lentheric is an old company which was established in 1795 as a millinery. In the 19th century, fashion accessories were added to the store. From 1873, perfumes were being informally blended in the store for sale and originally made fragrances only on request to his customers. Guillame Lentheric, a hairdresser, established the perfume-cosmetics company La Parfumerie des Orchidees in 1875 . A large building at <i>245 rue du Faubourg-Saint Honore in Paris</i> was acquired in 1885 and turned into a salon for millinery, perfumes, cosmetics and important beauty-hairdressing. By 1900, branches were opened in Deauville, Monte Carlo, Nice, Baden-Baden, and London. In 1910, the company was acquired by Velsch & Holtz. Later acquired in 1965 by the British American Tobacco group. From 1910-1965, Lentheric managed to produce around 140 fragrances. The company was then sold to Smith Kline Beecham pharmaceuticals in 1985, merged with Yardley in 1993; the name was licensed to International Brands in 1994.</span></blockquote>The bottle you see in the ad appears to one used be circa 1940s to as late as1960s, but it looks so old fashioned that I wonder if the 1956 date for this perfume is more correct? <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjFKSLU-o_k/TekyhHtmDQI/AAAAAAAACC0/CWtjJWr4uww/s1600/BqSGNrgB2kKGrHqUH-D8EuzCeg9ifBLvHYUcTmw_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjFKSLU-o_k/TekyhHtmDQI/AAAAAAAACC0/CWtjJWr4uww/s320/BqSGNrgB2kKGrHqUH-D8EuzCeg9ifBLvHYUcTmw_12.JPG" width="232" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Ad from Vogue 1967</div><br />
But in any case our story really begins in 1965, when Lentheric was acquired by the British American Tobacco group (BAT)... Lentheric 12 is distinguished as being one of the earliest 'modern' Lentheric perfumes - those released after BAT acquired the company.<br />
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"Back in the 1960's and 1970's BAT owned several perfume and fragrance houses. One, Lentheric, wanted a perfume that would "appeal to women everywhere". So they went to 12 of the world's best-known painters and commissioned them to paint their ideal of feminine beauty. Some of the painters include(d) Pietro Annigoni, Peter Blake, Padamsee, Ruskin Spear, Robert Ladou and William Dargie."<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-46JMrdAXJco/TekyUbuKc3I/AAAAAAAACCs/v88wzesTlDM/s1600/BhqzMQBmkKGrHqUH-DcEsO2FtftIBLKPifGqgQ_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-46JMrdAXJco/TekyUbuKc3I/AAAAAAAACCs/v88wzesTlDM/s320/BhqzMQBmkKGrHqUH-DcEsO2FtftIBLKPifGqgQ_12.JPG" width="238" /></a></div><br />
The author then adds: " Of course me being a Salvador Dali fan, I think his is by far the best. Oh and guess what, the imaginative and savvy marketing people called the new perfume; Lentheric 12. Sounds more like something I'd take for a cold. All of the above is quoted from an "On the road in London" piece published in the CorporateTrivia .com archives. Gee, it sounds more like a perfume to me- oh well, I suppose the author never heard of No. 5, No. 19 or No. 22, either.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5TShuRp764/TekxhV5Qh2I/AAAAAAAACCU/bNrdcuq3QGs/s1600/Lentheric_12_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5TShuRp764/TekxhV5Qh2I/AAAAAAAACCU/bNrdcuq3QGs/s1600/Lentheric_12_3.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The advertising for Lentheric 12 was somewhat innovative as well. The ads for the scent all featured 'winning' artworks submitted from the 12 artists; each contributed an image of the idyllic woman for whom '12' was created.... But make no mistake, this perfume was created for a fully-formed Eve of a woman, not some girl-child archetype. The scent smells wonderfully complex: spicy and smooth; dry, bitter and sweet; of bread and of fur; herbal, grassy and resinous.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D4szmHikYGU/TekyAWuhU_I/AAAAAAAACCk/wvSE2yCGArM/s1600/lentheric+robert+ladou+1967.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D4szmHikYGU/TekyAWuhU_I/AAAAAAAACCk/wvSE2yCGArM/s320/lentheric+robert+ladou+1967.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The artful campaign has fed all sorts of flowery language into my head- like bits of a melody that tells of forgotten journeys through rose and violet scented arbors; of days spent rambling around overgrown orange tree groves; of nights spent strolling down green paths lined with vetiver, patchouli, and oakmoss; of the golden sheen of a child's hair, and its innocent musk; the sweetness of castroeum; and somewhere, tarragon and basil scented bread baking over lumps of amber, on a bed of smoldering sandalwood... <br />
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While the soul of the juice remains intact, the scent has drifted into something of an upside-down ghost. However much it has been effected by age, its beauty is still quite apparent.<br />
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Lentheric 12 reflects the influence of those great creations of the late 1940s through 1950s. It comes from a time when companies cared enough to compete with each other to bring only the best releases to market. '12' seems to me like a hybrid of the Dior style of chypre and of Lancome's silky orientals, especially. It also reminds me quite a bit of an earlier, similarly complex and mysterious perfume: Shocking by Schiaparelli. It is also reminiscent for me of Polly Bergen's overlooked 1970s creation, Tortue.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hnNXdzYCy3M/TekybC1Of5I/AAAAAAAACCw/3oco3Ce5kYY/s1600/KGrHqMOKo4E1riCE30CBNjczonHg_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hnNXdzYCy3M/TekybC1Of5I/AAAAAAAACCw/3oco3Ce5kYY/s320/KGrHqMOKo4E1riCE30CBNjczonHg_12.JPG" width="233" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Above photo: ebay seller Flowerpower-1968</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sa7Jgf1hhps/Tek34wWDyoI/AAAAAAAACC8/jh2xIIdbGok/s1600/20110603_4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sa7Jgf1hhps/Tek34wWDyoI/AAAAAAAACC8/jh2xIIdbGok/s320/20110603_4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Lentheric '12' is often referred to as being an edt but it also came in the pure perfume form, in a beautiful crystal topped flacon. The lid for all of the '12' presentations I've seen is always gray, be it crystal or plastic. On the perfume, the lid is heavy smoked crystal with a ground neck recess, under which fits a brass and plastic screw top, covering a dome shaped dauber-top. Mine has a large chip right at the base, which spoils its handsome looks a bit. The perfume juice I've seen have all aged into deep red-brown. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WXMb0SwX6dU/TekxxfGe0-I/AAAAAAAACCY/PF3oN_6OYqk/s1600/Lillian-Gisholder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WXMb0SwX6dU/TekxxfGe0-I/AAAAAAAACCY/PF3oN_6OYqk/s320/Lillian-Gisholder.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
As an aside: the first whiff of many vintage perfumes can be deceiving. It often happens that the top notes evaporate in greater proportion to the rest of the composition, leaving more of the heavier heart and base notes behind. An imbalance occurs, and the scent shifts towards the lower register. Yet sometimes, most of the top notes are still present, albeit in smaller amounts. Over time, you begin to detect many top notes that at first seemed to be lacking. After you smell newer and older examples of familiar perfumes, you begin to note certain patterns in how aging tends to change perfumes, and your brain seems to begin to be able to pull the threads together, to fill in those missing parts. It's like seeing the older woman and picturing the younger woman in your mind...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DV45L5CXvWI/Tekx8PnuaII/AAAAAAAACCg/RPiEWIPgOmg/s1600/lillian-gishyoung.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DV45L5CXvWI/Tekx8PnuaII/AAAAAAAACCg/RPiEWIPgOmg/s320/lillian-gishyoung.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><br />
After doing some research, I've located a couple of more modern examples of '12'... and no doubt they might be in 'better shape' and could perhaps reveal more about how '12' smelled when it was 'young'. But for some reason, I see no need to seek them out.<br />
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Oh, and if any of you are wondering what the Lentheric of today is like, I can tell you the rest of that story, too: <br />
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After BAT, Smith Kline Beecham pharmaceuticals, Yardley and others took turns owning and using the Lentheric name to promote various bath and beauty products. In 1998 Lenthéric re-emerged as a modern perfume house although their current offerings range from the low brow offerings- 'Junkie', which looks like an 'Axe' knock-off, to their 'Hoity-Toity' line, which looks like it was designed with hyper-active, over-medicated 'tweens in mind. Needless to say, for a retrophile like myself, the Lentheric of today leaves much to be desired when held up against the quality offerings of their past!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--MQ0YdkTAnM/TekyK7my7VI/AAAAAAAACCo/tyoCOgBhLN4/s1600/dargie_LENTHERIC+STUDY1963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--MQ0YdkTAnM/TekyK7my7VI/AAAAAAAACCo/tyoCOgBhLN4/s320/dargie_LENTHERIC+STUDY1963.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><br />
Photograph of the Lentheric study 1963. According to the captionist,William Dargie won the worldwide painting competition held by Lentheric for the launch of their new perfume ‘Lentheric 12’. Have you seen his version of the ad? The portrait is of his daughter Faye, who was fifteen at the time.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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I must apologize for the use of these photographs- most credits are lost!<br />
Many ads are from Ebay and I can't recall where I found the archival material...<br />
Lillian Gish photos from Google images search</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-77937672453594613922011-05-16T06:08:00.000-07:002011-05-16T06:08:11.394-07:00SOTD: Jil Sander No 4 and random thoughts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mEuI3FRAa_w/TdEgyceAh7I/AAAAAAAACCM/jxlsQJFPfRE/s1600/n-4-jil-sander_004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mEuI3FRAa_w/TdEgyceAh7I/AAAAAAAACCM/jxlsQJFPfRE/s320/n-4-jil-sander_004.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><br />
Arghh! I'm still on work-imposed blog-cation. So much pent up vintage perfume fixation/frustration has built up, and I haven't even found time and space to answer a number of important reader queries. Ah, well... in these extremely trying economic times I'm actually lucky to have a job at all so I really can't complain. But speaking of vintage perfumes (and only to hint at my mind's turnings as of late), take a look at this <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/03/110315093830.htm">article</a> about how our sense of smell depends almost exclusively on training. I am more convinced than ever that our sense of smell is completely dependent on our own personal history of perfume and scent exposure and is shaped in large part by what (and when) we've had access to smell. I also notice 'generational swings' in people's preferences for most things; don't you?<br />
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In any case, dear readers, I apologize for my absence! I miss even having time to read others' blogs, which is worse than not having time to write for the most part. But no matter; it's off to work I must go. Today I'll be wafting a cloud of Jil Sander No 4, a signature scent from a past life...<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.and can't wait for May 28th to roll around- </div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-25560608681583181422011-05-06T07:52:00.000-07:002011-05-08T06:47:45.336-07:00SOTD: Hanae Mori Pour Homme<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bmRE0Sn_vTo/TcQKTuCeioI/AAAAAAAACCI/d5TLjh7eaDs/s1600/Elise+Daniels+street+performers+richard+avedon+1948+paris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bmRE0Sn_vTo/TcQKTuCeioI/AAAAAAAACCI/d5TLjh7eaDs/s320/Elise+Daniels+street+performers+richard+avedon+1948+paris.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Spring is different this year. The ordinarily orderly procession of successive bloomings has turned into a frenzied disrobing, everything fully exposed seemingly overnight. That means any spare time right now is turned toward taming the beast. Lemons and oranges seemingly just ripe yesterday hang decaying, while the new season's blossoms already litter the garden floor, fully fallen and spent. I haven't even gotten outside much to enjoy them and now they're already gone. Perfume-wise, things have been on a similar fast track but I've hardly time to write of it to you now.<br />
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But just wait. This June I'll delve into the vast array of scent related topics that have been simmering on the back-burner in this meantime; some rants and some raves are sure to follow! In the meantime, I need to update some new questions on some older posts- look for those this weekend, I promise.<br />
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Oh, and my scent of the day ~ HANAE MORI Pour Homme ~ Eau de Toilette ~ features a not-very-vintage note that I've grown to recognize as a deal sealer for instant love and attraction. I'll be dedicating a whole post to it in the not-too-distant future as well!<br />
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Extended notes list for HMPH edt (and there is a difference between edt and edp- I love the edt exclusively).<br />
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Edit: traditionally notes are given as Jasmin, Citron, Lavande, Vanille, Fève Tonka.<br />
Originally I included this alternative list of notes from another source (sorry, I've lost the reference):<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Tête : Bergamote, Estragon, Coriandre, Note Fruité <br />
Coeur : Geranium, Rose, Muguet, Fougère <br />
Fond : Bois de Cèdre, Santal, Vanille, Feve Tonka</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For me, the lavender and lemon combine to read as a light minty, herbal mix which plays against the velvety vanilla and chocolate woods- more bitter than sweet<b>,</b> with a woody musky finish. And best of all, the dry smooth notes are played against a side of gorgeous white florals. Nothing too manly here- many women would be able to handle this one with ease.</div><br />
The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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image: Elise Daniles with Street Performers in Paris by Richard Avedon, 1948 </div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-20355489714224647302011-04-29T07:58:00.000-07:002011-04-29T07:58:16.206-07:00SOTD: Caron Bellogia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5qZxcpkzlGo/TbrQfTrH7CI/AAAAAAAACCA/Cp8WiuAvZzE/s1600/bellodgia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5qZxcpkzlGo/TbrQfTrH7CI/AAAAAAAACCA/Cp8WiuAvZzE/s320/bellodgia.jpg" width="236" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div>Perfect for a spring wedding, don't you agree?<br />
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My blog-cation is almost over and I've got so much catching up to do with you all. In the meantime, 3 cheers for real-life fairy tales and happily ever afters!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lzsMjkxrs64/TbrR7nkh3OI/AAAAAAAACCE/lznxvW-09T8/s1600/imageskatewilliam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lzsMjkxrs64/TbrR7nkh3OI/AAAAAAAACCE/lznxvW-09T8/s1600/imageskatewilliam.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-14370827577996631242011-04-26T07:14:00.000-07:002011-04-26T07:14:45.756-07:00SOTD: Vintage Caron En Avion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3MG_pEG0fZ4/TbbSPgZEDkI/AAAAAAAACB8/BWb7cwIg1uA/s1600/Aviatrix_by_StarsingerSaathi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3MG_pEG0fZ4/TbbSPgZEDkI/AAAAAAAACB8/BWb7cwIg1uA/s320/Aviatrix_by_StarsingerSaathi.jpg" width="262" /></a></div><br />
...which I'm still working out; a proper review will certainly be forth coming... <br />
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(Aviatrix image by Starsinger Saathi)<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-74005540258438948132011-04-20T06:14:00.000-07:002011-04-20T06:16:09.736-07:00SOTD: Donna edt Gherardini Firenze<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l23eWmBuJrE/TabwNah-6VI/AAAAAAAACAk/7mjz4_YPyPs/s1600/reed_donna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l23eWmBuJrE/TabwNah-6VI/AAAAAAAACAk/7mjz4_YPyPs/s1600/reed_donna.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d78XLp9Wwto/Tabwept4moI/AAAAAAAACAw/YmkS1MFYQ3E/s1600/donna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d78XLp9Wwto/Tabwept4moI/AAAAAAAACAw/YmkS1MFYQ3E/s320/donna.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BCq8lMeqwfc/TabxAze3YAI/AAAAAAAACA0/6KfSSRdnJIQ/s1600/Madonna%252BBeautiful.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BCq8lMeqwfc/TabxAze3YAI/AAAAAAAACA0/6KfSSRdnJIQ/s320/Madonna%252BBeautiful.jpg" width="240" /></a></div></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">No matter who your favorite 'Donna' is, you can't go wrong with today's scent -- DONNA, a powdery green chypre with ambery-leathery touches. From Italian leather goods makers Gherardini Firenz, released 1970s or 1980s (I'm guessing, no time to research today!) and of course, discontinued. I love this one- well worth a throw if you tend to like Italian style scents (refined, softish, skin-loving) and happen to see it! </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_6ILx7SSJOA/Tab0my9f0yI/AAAAAAAACBA/WauSb-pMUAs/s1600/bonorman.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_6ILx7SSJOA/Tab0my9f0yI/AAAAAAAACBA/WauSb-pMUAs/s320/bonorman.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">This photo of Donna is from Ebay seller Bonorman:)<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-71432129571205540172011-04-16T06:52:00.000-07:002011-04-16T08:31:34.384-07:00Patrizier-Haus (Patrician House) Anonym Perfume<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESuIGwK3Pbs/TamenSePlII/AAAAAAAACB0/uu7_xGSN8Bk/s1600/herbert-tobias21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESuIGwK3Pbs/TamenSePlII/AAAAAAAACB0/uu7_xGSN8Bk/s400/herbert-tobias21.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> Herbert Tobias photograph of Nico Paeffgen wearing a cocktail dress by Heinz Oestergaard, 1956</div><br />
Patrician House is the modern name for the much older cologne manufacturer Younger and Gebhardt. Originally located in Berlin in 1873, the company moved to Cologne Germany after WWII and took up the rather more generic sounding Patrizier-Haus. The Patrizier-Haus name begins to show up on perfumes starting in mid to late 1940s and continued appearing on fragrances throughout the 1950s and into the 1960s. Known primarily for traditional lavender based men's colognes, a number of women's perfumes were also released by PH. Their women's perfumes include Alita, Anonym, Corina, Filigram (Filigree) and Torero. The cologne line included Patrician Orange eau d'Cologne, Lavendel-Jasmin, Lavendel-Orangen, Patrizier Lavendel and Lavendel Tabac.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BlHSsfisd4k/TamYjXoEpoI/AAAAAAAACBI/_Wy2XHYM0UA/s1600/juengergebhardtveilchen1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BlHSsfisd4k/TamYjXoEpoI/AAAAAAAACBI/_Wy2XHYM0UA/s1600/juengergebhardtveilchen1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Junger & Gebhardt Berlin perfume bottle circa 1900s</div><br />
Confusion abounds in researching the fragrances produced by Patrician House due both to the company name change and to the fact that many of the imported products bear Anglicized spelling. Products intended for domestic (German) sales and consumption were labeled under Patrizier-Haus-Koln. All hints of the earlier affiliation with Younger and Gebhardt name were dropped from the more modern releases sold under the 'Patrician House' label further muddling matters. Yet it appears that most of the perfumes and colognes imported into the US came directly from Germany into a single US distributor in Portland Oregon known as <a href="http://www.theperfumehouse.com/">The Perfume House</a>. The Perfume House is a well-known institution that has a long standing tradition around Portland, OR. Adding one more layer to the onion, The Perfume House was formerly also known as Tamak Inc; you find 'imported by Tamak Inc' stamped or printed somewhere on most of the vintage Patrician House fragrances that were sold in America.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WlKc361-eDI/Tama6Xdh1bI/AAAAAAAACBc/UykqTQ1t98A/s1600/juengergebhardtlavendelorangen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WlKc361-eDI/Tama6Xdh1bI/AAAAAAAACBc/UykqTQ1t98A/s400/juengergebhardtlavendelorangen.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Transition from Younger and Gebhardt to Patrician House- Lavender Orange </div><br />
The perfume Alita deserves special mention due to a rather cryptic description of it that I found online. Affiliated with some now defunct (?) natural perfumery HealthPub blog that used the tag line: “The Age of the Foodie is passed. It is now the Age of the Scentie.", the <a href="http://beauty.healthpub.net/ever-hear-of-alita-by-patrician-house">mini review</a> is most interesting:<br />
<blockquote>"this rare rose perfume is made from enfleuraged rose oil that is aged 48 years...it does smell glorious. Let me know if anybody has ever heard of it. If after I evaluate it and if I find it really, really excellent quality rose I may use it in some of my perfumes. Never heard of Schiras (sic) rose before…."</blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1GN6GTW9kg/TamZRU6KEkI/AAAAAAAACBQ/97MSSI1KuuM/s1600/B43e3Uw2kKGrHqNisEydU3tPlBMre117tI_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1GN6GTW9kg/TamZRU6KEkI/AAAAAAAACBQ/97MSSI1KuuM/s320/B43e3Uw2kKGrHqNisEydU3tPlBMre117tI_12.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OqOWZfT-xzc/TamZljGRNGI/AAAAAAAACBY/Co6MsuPNLqI/s1600/BtWsswQWkKGrHqQOKiIEvOQcc46BL7p9yChQQ_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OqOWZfT-xzc/TamZljGRNGI/AAAAAAAACBY/Co6MsuPNLqI/s320/BtWsswQWkKGrHqQOKiIEvOQcc46BL7p9yChQQ_3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span id="goog_112217306"></span><span id="goog_112217307"></span><br />
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Perhaps the most storied Patrician House perfume is Corina. From "Secret Portland (Oregon): The Unique Guidebook to Portland's Hidden Sites" by Ann Carroll Burgess, Linda Rutenberg:<br />
<blockquote>"You can even smell the exclusive and very expensive Corina from Patrician House, which was introduced at the Seattle World's Fair in 1962 and is considered one of the greatest perfumes ever created..."</blockquote>The rarest of the Patrician House perfumes may be Torero, which you can see below, but my bet is on perhaps the last release from Patrician House, Filigram (Filigree). Released in 1965, it's the one PH perfume I've never seen or heard referenced anywhere except for the briefest mention in the Perfume Intelligence library.<br />
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Thanks to Dimitri at <a href="http://sorceryofscent.blogspot.com/2010_02_01_archive.html">Sorcery of Scent</a>, you can see some wonderful examples from the artist whose work embellished the outer packaging of many Patrizier Haus fragrances.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zS3Nl8BmZiE/Tamb91iuftI/AAAAAAAACBg/hhvLF0ccstQ/s1600/patrizierhaustorerobox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zS3Nl8BmZiE/Tamb91iuftI/AAAAAAAACBg/hhvLF0ccstQ/s1600/patrizierhaustorerobox.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Formerly my own experience with Patrician House was limited to their Patrician Orange eau d'Cologne, which I'll be writing up soon enough as part of an upcoming Cologne week celebration.<br />
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I've seen a few bottles of the perfume Anonym around, which leads me to think it was probably one of PH's most popular perfumes. After smelling it I find myself enchanted and curious about the scent. This is the same perfume Dimitri found, which was given a one line description: ' an oriental style perfume'.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Og5Lwj2NJ0c/TamcKpmhBFI/AAAAAAAACBk/7hyF4mr1Tt4/s1600/patrizierhauskoelnlavendeljasmin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Og5Lwj2NJ0c/TamcKpmhBFI/AAAAAAAACBk/7hyF4mr1Tt4/s1600/patrizierhauskoelnlavendeljasmin.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E1KY3a7CqcU/TamcRJsI_-I/AAAAAAAACBo/TbfbT5KYv4w/s1600/patrizierhauskoelnlavendeltabac.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E1KY3a7CqcU/TamcRJsI_-I/AAAAAAAACBo/TbfbT5KYv4w/s1600/patrizierhauskoelnlavendeltabac.jpg" /></a></div><br />
My bottle of Anonym was sealed. According to what I smell, Anonym is a decidedly floral perfume through and through. It opens with brightly sweet and familiar notes of narcissus and jasmine, yet I catch hints of something -- is it a trace of ambergris (?)- (there are other perfumes around the desk-top...) From skin, it appears to be based almost entirely with a tenacious and high quality rose oil (like Alita?) A faint and vaguely spicy rose is all that lingers on your skin long after all obvious traces of the scent have vanished.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iC3nRMTToOI/Tamcp8cx0yI/AAAAAAAACBw/I8Y3sJ0C7a8/s1600/BtljogEWkKGrHqIOKiwEvN0B3mmBL8nuhUTtw_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iC3nRMTToOI/Tamcp8cx0yI/AAAAAAAACBw/I8Y3sJ0C7a8/s320/BtljogEWkKGrHqIOKiwEvN0B3mmBL8nuhUTtw_3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;">Patrizier Haus Anonym cologne</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The box for my Anonym is a little plain- none of the pretty artwork you saw on the Torero box. Instead it is done in a dull gold tone bordered in shocking violet-pink and white touches (matches the label you see above). However, the bottle looks identical to the little Torero perfume- it has that same cute triangular shape with a brass screw-on style cap; it holds 1/5th ounce of pure perfume. Whether you call it Patrician House or Patrizier-Haus, you really can't go wrong with one of these high quality vintage German fragrances. All the perfumes are highly collectible. I paid about $15 dollars for a 1/5th ounce, new-old-stock, boxed bottle- which comes out to about $2 per ml.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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image credits:<br />
all images of PH and YG fragrances are thanks to http://www.duftwaesserchen.wb4.de/ except <br />
images of PH scents on pink satin from Ebay sellers JEWELRYandTREASURE (100% positive feedbacks)<br />
and <br />
image of Corina on blue from Ebay seller RARE PERFUMES (98.8% positive feedbacks)</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-80412264274783726772011-04-13T05:42:00.000-07:002011-04-13T05:50:49.367-07:00SOTD: Ralph Lauren Safari for Women<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yv5XmZ6MOPQ/TaWVx87EL9I/AAAAAAAACAc/-matuxVd08Y/s1600/junglesafari+sewingstardom.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yv5XmZ6MOPQ/TaWVx87EL9I/AAAAAAAACAc/-matuxVd08Y/s320/junglesafari+sewingstardom.jpeg" width="229" /></a></div><br />
Kitschy connotations and Colonialist aspirations aside, Ralph Lauren's Safari for Women (1990) has indeed suffered at least one cycle of oblivion - discontinuation and now possibly, a reformulation and silent re-release; has it quietly re-appeared anew on retail shelves or am I just seeing back-stock being sold as new? Diverging opinions of the scent's basic character make me think it's been reformulated somewhere along the line.<br />
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Perfumer Dominique Ropion created a master-work of 1990s sensibility- sharp, green floral with grassy/woody, amberic dry-down meant to invoke the scorching dry African Savanna. Unfortunately there's none of Bettie Page's tongue-in-cheek humor to lighten this one up - it is a dense and rather grand affair. Elegant and severe yet very feminine- dare I say, aggressive? That and it's imposing sillage make for the type of perfume your boss's boss would favor. Great for when you want to play boss, too- plus it smells really good.<br />
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You can see the <a href="http://www.basenotes.net/ID10212767.html">full list of notes</a> and pyramid details over at Basenotes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_QDAUgABEo/TaWZ_fYSRII/AAAAAAAACAg/QT1Zp4VOM7c/s1600/131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_QDAUgABEo/TaWZ_fYSRII/AAAAAAAACAg/QT1Zp4VOM7c/s1600/131.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-684056338001533282011-04-11T06:07:00.000-07:002011-04-11T06:07:31.440-07:00Revlon Moon Drops Perfume<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MCMCZe9ZpkU/TaL2-ljCfwI/AAAAAAAACAY/1JvhqBjdy-0/s1600/the-girl-in-the-moon-1923b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MCMCZe9ZpkU/TaL2-ljCfwI/AAAAAAAACAY/1JvhqBjdy-0/s320/the-girl-in-the-moon-1923b.jpg" width="315" /></a></div><br />
Moon Drops is a half-forgotten, half-hidden classic of modern American perfumery. Released by Revlon in 1970, the same year Prince Matchabelli debuted Cachet and Max Factor released Aquarius. The perfume landscape was changing once more although women who wore perfume still usually wore only one scent, typically something received as a gift rather than purchased. Many women stopped wearing perfume altogether and experimented with the exotic base oils- musk, patchouli, ambergris and civet were all popular. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MmT17WxJQ3k/TaIxiICsEjI/AAAAAAAACAQ/F30pVd6QbaM/s1600/BwKJWZwBmkKGrHqNh0Ev10EzHhBMHqQFnkiw_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MmT17WxJQ3k/TaIxiICsEjI/AAAAAAAACAQ/F30pVd6QbaM/s320/BwKJWZwBmkKGrHqNh0Ev10EzHhBMHqQFnkiw_3.JPG" width="234" /></a></div><br />
Moon Drops was released as a drugstore fragrance, below the radar of those who preferred 'finer fragrances'. It may have been a drugstore fragrance but make no mistake- it smells much more expensive than you would expect. The opening is arrayed with seductive (i.e., grown-up, not too sweet) fruity touches of bergamot, raspberry and peach, all set aglow with aldehydes. The floral heart of lily of the valley, rose and jasmine lies couched within the balsamic golden-green depths of cedarwood, amber, styrax and moss. A creamy, spicy carnation, powdery orris and honey trio bind all the other elements together while the rubbery, slightly camphorous tuberose and sultry ylang-ylang give Moon Drops plenty of va va voom- it's sexy, but in a relaxed, earthy sort of way. You could call it a chypre, a green floral, a spicy floral or a floriental- it straddles all of these categories.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ea0UTK7r64o/TaL2xrPHcHI/AAAAAAAACAU/sryg2HWCsk4/s1600/012407fragrance-us-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ea0UTK7r64o/TaL2xrPHcHI/AAAAAAAACAU/sryg2HWCsk4/s320/012407fragrance-us-2.jpg" width="233" /></a></div><br />
Barbara from Yesterday's Perfume gives us the notes list, as follows:<br />
<blockquote>Top notes: Aldehydes, gardenia, peach, raspberry, bergamot<br />
Heart notes: Lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, carnation, orris, honey, tuberose<br />
Base notes: Sandalwood, musk, cedarwood, moss, styrax, amber, benzoin</blockquote>Moon Drops was made for the woman who knows what she wants and isn't afraid to get it. It's gradual waning from American store shelves left many bereft and searching for a replacement- there are many scents done in a similar style but no really good dupes, I'm afraid. There are rumors Moon Drops is still made and sold in select foreign markets but I can't verify that information. Irma Shorell also has a Long Lost version- Luna Drops (I think?) but it is not thought of as a good representation of the true perfume. If you love rich, intoxicating scents, smoldering scents, spicy mysterious scents, then the vintage version is worth seeking out. If you look around and have a bit of patience you can usually pick up vintage Moon Drops for not too much money (as of today); this wasn't always the case, but the time is ripe for deals in vintage perfumes like never before. I have the parfum spray. If you get this version, try to spray it onto something rather than apply directly to skin. Moon Drops benefits from exposure to air, particularly after unsealing a long kept bottle as well. Spray lightly and wait a few minutes for the chlorofluorocarbons to dissipate before smelling!<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-14243086451502542942011-04-06T06:33:00.000-07:002011-04-06T06:33:15.777-07:00SOTD: Etienne Aigner No 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSusrrY5ImM/TZxraVF--XI/AAAAAAAACAI/3n_yma_LQdM/s1600/brockes-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSusrrY5ImM/TZxraVF--XI/AAAAAAAACAI/3n_yma_LQdM/s320/brockes-600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
Etienne Aigner No 2 (1976)<br />
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Another men's scent that gets a big thumbs up from me. Clean and soapy in the best way, as if woodland fairies had created a cleansing tonic made from all the finest pickings from some wild alpine meadow. No 2 is a eau de toilette but has a cologne feeling. It never fails to uplift, energize and calm me. Plus it has a wonderful soothing dry-down and packs great lasting power. Some sources claim No. 2 is still in production but after looking around a bit, I think it may be fading away. If you're looking for a cologne style scent for summer- and have been craving something off the beaten path, with a vintage flare, but still accessible online for a reasonable price of around $50, then look no further. Very 'unisex', if you believe in such male/female scent distinctions. <br />
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Top Notes: Lavender, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Lemon<br />
Middle Notes: Geranium, Vetiver, Heliotrope, Fern, Sandal, Orris, Cedarwood, Rose<br />
Base Notes: Musk, Moss, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Labdanum<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-89525464955240061432011-04-04T06:21:00.000-07:002011-04-04T17:34:13.092-07:00Lata Eau de Parfum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NjyqeC-92zY/TZpgytk2-HI/AAAAAAAAB_8/pAvkXD8cc8g/s1600/lata_mangeshkar%2540sareedreams.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NjyqeC-92zY/TZpgytk2-HI/AAAAAAAAB_8/pAvkXD8cc8g/s320/lata_mangeshkar%2540sareedreams.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Lata, on left.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Perfumes from other cultures always fascinate me. Today the 'vault is hosting Lata eau de parfum (released 1999/2000). Lata perfume is named after Lata Mangeshkar, the famous Indian 'playback' singer. If you've ever watched a vintage Bollywood film (1940s- present) chances are you've heard Lata sing. Her perfume came about when Indian chemist-entrepreneur-turned-perfume-manufacturer<span style="color: purple;"> </span><a href="http://www.financialexpress.com/old/fe/daily/20000507/fst06033.html"><span style="color: navy;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: purple;">Deepak Ramrao Kanegaonkar</span> </span></span></a>began creating and branding perfumes around Indian celebrities; Lata was his second and, according to some sources, the most acclaimed of his scents to date. Yet according to <a href="http://www.mouthshut.com/review/Lata-Eau-De-Parfum-qmttntpum">other sources</a>, the perfume was developed by Mr Charles Caruso of SFA, in Grasse, France.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zx8oE_sZA-k/TZpcF11hukI/AAAAAAAAB_o/-UrhsQ8d65w/s1600/perfume1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zx8oE_sZA-k/TZpcF11hukI/AAAAAAAAB_o/-UrhsQ8d65w/s320/perfume1.jpg" width="280" /></a></div><br />
<a href="http://www.rediff.com/entertai/1999/nov/03lata.htm">Lata eau de parfum</a> is made of 78 different essences. An emphasis was placed on sourcing and using only the finest quality ingredients; French rose and other floral and fruit essences and spices were blended with the best Indian Sandalwood and musk. The result is a unique scent built to suit Indian tastes and reflect Lata's attributes, since Lata was intended primarily for domestic Indian distribution. The spice note is unusual, very quiet and dry but persistent; grounding, meditative- maybe mace or nutmeg and a dusting of cinnamon. I don't detect much in the way of many of the spices I commonly encounter in perfumes such as pepper, clove or cumin. Everything is very well done, it's just slightly exotic to my nose- as different emphasis is given to familiar notes. Rose, jasmine and lilac (I think) dominate the floral notes. Musk gives this perfume a soft glow but the real star of the show is the sandalwood.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hjwoCO6doXc/TZpgrvc9PvI/AAAAAAAAB_4/m6wC2eJgrP4/s1600/Lata%252BMangeshkar%2540last.fm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hjwoCO6doXc/TZpgrvc9PvI/AAAAAAAAB_4/m6wC2eJgrP4/s1600/Lata%252BMangeshkar%2540last.fm.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The dry-down is long lasting and blissful, a nearly perfect showcase of a bright and smooth mellow-tart sandalwood, that shines on and on especially on fabrics but on skin, too. Such high quality sandal is something I don't smell too often in perfumes - of any era, truthfully. And even though I don't really connect with the whole story of Lata on a personal level, the quality and scent alone are reason enough to treasure Lata eau de parfum. The packaging is best described as well done for such an effort. It features a gold design of music staff, notes and a cameo of the image of Lata.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hPhs60oQcSs/TZpfPqeJqXI/AAAAAAAAB_s/cYKV766mGOw/s1600/20110404_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hPhs60oQcSs/TZpfPqeJqXI/AAAAAAAAB_s/cYKV766mGOw/s320/20110404_11.JPG" width="319" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VPrmqi2fNL8/TZpfV5mUwRI/AAAAAAAAB_w/qM5vjk_dbqc/s1600/20110404_4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VPrmqi2fNL8/TZpfV5mUwRI/AAAAAAAAB_w/qM5vjk_dbqc/s320/20110404_4.JPG" width="267" /></a></div><br />
I do get a kick out of Lata, the singer. An icon in India, at one time it was said she held the World's Record as the single artist who had recorded the most songs. I gather some (or at least, <a href="http://sareedreams.com/2009/09/lata-mangeshkar-very-old-picture-with-saree/">one</a>) of the younger Indian singers hate Lata vehemently; they say she kept many aspiring female playback singers from getting a chance to work, as she held exclusive contracts to do so much of the playback recording for females parts in Indian films.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eiaA9M9qBZI/TZpgjHObOVI/AAAAAAAAB_0/g6fNHnuJ2Cs/s1600/lata-mangeshkar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eiaA9M9qBZI/TZpgjHObOVI/AAAAAAAAB_0/g6fNHnuJ2Cs/s1600/lata-mangeshkar.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Nevertheless, Lata won my heart when she explained that as she got older and found she wasn't able to wear the beautiful dresses any longer, perfume took on special significance for her. She said that as she traveled and performed all over the world, she always made sure, each place she went, to buy one very special perfume from that place, to add to her perfume collection. She joked that later on, her family and friends would tease her whenever there was an unexpected knock at the door- "Lata, hide your perfumes, it's the IRS (or Indian equivalent) calling...."- I hope I got all the details right for this story- it's so charming and endearing. And I can only imagine that Lata must have one fabulous perfume collection! But even so, Lata claims to love and treasure her namesake perfume on its own merits.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6DrLLjBIXs0/TZphuLVvwrI/AAAAAAAACAA/3b16pnE-GMU/s1600/LATA3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6DrLLjBIXs0/TZphuLVvwrI/AAAAAAAACAA/3b16pnE-GMU/s320/LATA3.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><br />
As time has proven, Lata did not sell as well as originally hoped- the price for the perfume was set too high- although the manufacturer claimed it was due to the cost of the materials themselves. Indian Sandalwood especially has also become nearly impossible to source over the past 10 or so years... and sadly, making Lata eau de parfum a permanent resident of the Vintage Perfume Vault.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images: </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">sareelove </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">voiceofindia</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">turquoisekid</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">topnewsofindia</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-62473864685477717472011-04-02T13:30:00.000-07:002011-04-02T13:58:46.541-07:00Scented wanderings: perfumes of tomorrow?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xDwUO2c1psI/TZeMW5xj3nI/AAAAAAAAB_g/rtxtidcHE7k/s1600/4158690597_4dee47e186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xDwUO2c1psI/TZeMW5xj3nI/AAAAAAAAB_g/rtxtidcHE7k/s320/4158690597_4dee47e186.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
One thing I find interesting about perfume people is that we actually take the time to smell our world, stop and think about it. Every spring since coming to our 'forever home', I've taken to documenting some of the natural scented phenomenons I encounter. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUZqY1q6Viw/TZd98RZPXVI/AAAAAAAAB-w/MeLl4W6OmT0/s1600/Cherry_Tree_Pink_Flower_Bunch_by_Enchantedgal_Stock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUZqY1q6Viw/TZd98RZPXVI/AAAAAAAAB-w/MeLl4W6OmT0/s320/Cherry_Tree_Pink_Flower_Bunch_by_Enchantedgal_Stock.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Last year I noted that despite what's so often said - i.e., that Cherry blossoms lack any real fragrance - the truth is that cherry blossoms have a very lovely scent. I can see why people might make the assumption that cherries are scentless, though. Last year, their odor was so fleeting that you could really only detect it on the first day of the tree being in full bloom. The fragrance, although not the flowers, had faded away completely by the next day.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2VxHdTmJHc/TZd-Za986jI/AAAAAAAAB-0/zNC2nRRcWyU/s1600/cherry+blossom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2VxHdTmJHc/TZd-Za986jI/AAAAAAAAB-0/zNC2nRRcWyU/s320/cherry+blossom.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
But this year things were different with our cherry tree. A series of late season cold rain storms hit our area and caught the poor little cherry right at the start of her bloom. The bees wouldn't set so much as an antenna out of their hives as we sat watching the cold drizzle. The first blush and then the full bloom went forth, ignored. But with probably only a third of the blossoms left in bud (the rest had already withered and wasted), the sun finally did come out. And our tree responded with one of the strongest, sweetest fragrances I've ever smelled, and to imagine it was coming off our cherry tree. It filled the entire yard with its papery honey sweet scent. Very pretty. But it served an important purpose as well; every bee in the county must have known the cherry was desperate for their services.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GISt1PZvFXo/TZd-vDCZx2I/AAAAAAAAB_E/tnRJvDdn2u0/s1600/7030-0273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GISt1PZvFXo/TZd-vDCZx2I/AAAAAAAAB_E/tnRJvDdn2u0/s320/7030-0273.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I don't know that I think often enough about how much local conditions and practices impact the quality of the essences used for perfumes, and how much luck plays into building some of those stunning fragrances- whether extracted directly from plants, or, as technology advances, from specific head-space samples. But as consumers begin to demand more of a 'unique' experience from their fragrance choices, these types of specific scent portraits will strongly impact future perfumes. We will find more and more perfumers and companies seeking to design scents that capture these highly personal, idiosyncratic moments.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yx7p7AK9LWU/TZeD-NPg-9I/AAAAAAAAB_Q/WmCKWUQJjQ4/s1600/o.8119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yx7p7AK9LWU/TZeD-NPg-9I/AAAAAAAAB_Q/WmCKWUQJjQ4/s320/o.8119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
A harbinger of the trend is seen in Kenzo's collection of travel scents, e.g., 7:15 in Bali; 5:40 pm in Madegascar; 10:10 am in Sisley... which may go on to become highly collectible fragrances in the future. The forerunner of the trend is found in nearly every vintage perfume you've ever owned that contains naturally harvested flower essences. The fact is that many of the essences we find in vintage scents have since become<a href="http://www.aai-nyc.org/cuchifritos/Exhibits/If_There_Ever_Was/index.html"> extinct</a>... and that's something I'll be pondering the next time I reach for something to spritz (or buy).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bgrLcBUNSxo/TZeMr-sWwlI/AAAAAAAAB_k/d8_SWtdbj7k/s1600/geisha300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bgrLcBUNSxo/TZeMr-sWwlI/AAAAAAAAB_k/d8_SWtdbj7k/s1600/geisha300.jpg" /></a></div>If you find this topic interesting, please see a related post by Octavian of 1000fragrances where he gives details of his<a href="http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2011/03/trend-apocalypse-now-future-of-perfumes.html"> future vision</a> for where fragrance trends are heading... <br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images: </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kimika at Cherry blossom festival, from flickr</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">cherry blossoms from google image search</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">little geisha girls: yeinjee.com</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-39232444569846840212011-04-02T11:38:00.000-07:002011-04-02T19:07:58.040-07:00Verve Mist of Spring by Prince Matchabelli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bdjm9zLgseo/TZdscyn6sYI/AAAAAAAAB-o/YJKYdnVjKag/s1600/Iris-by-Carroll-Thayer-Berry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bdjm9zLgseo/TZdscyn6sYI/AAAAAAAAB-o/YJKYdnVjKag/s320/Iris-by-Carroll-Thayer-Berry.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Chesebrough-Ponds, now known as Unilever, acquired Prince Matchabelli in 1958. Following this change of hands, one of the first products debuted under the Prince Matchabelli name was their new line of VERVE colognes. Those familiar with Prince Matchabelli will recall the old PM Crown bottles- identical in shape and form, except for differently colored enamel or glass insets. The colors were used to distinguish between the various PM scents. The 1960 Verve scents came packaged similarly- plain glass columns with various pastel-colored plastic dispenser tops corresponding to the various scents. <br />
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Confetti: deep periwinkle blue<br />
Misty Lace: true pink<br />
Mist of Musk: clay pink<br />
Mist of Spring: pale lavender blue<br />
Softly Oriental: pale mauve pink<br />
Twilight Mist: turquoise<br />
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I'm not sure how much effort Chesebrough-Ponds ever put into advertising the Verve line- it seems as if I can recall seeing some magazine ads for Verve Mist of Musk but I sure couldn't pull anything up online as of today. In any case, the line slipped away and was discontinued only a few years later. Despite the lack of fan-fare, these scents were very well done for the casual cologne genre and many perfumistas have fond memories of the scents. I missed Verve by a few years and so I only knew of it by its <a href="http://www.100perfumes.com/forums/perfume/m14903.htm">reputation</a>.<br />
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Recently I was delighted to spot the pale lavender top of PM's Verve: Mist of Spring during a vintage rummage. Luckily the Verve colognes have such generic, nondescript packaging that you can often find them lurking around thrift store shelves and the like, past by, forgotten or ignored. If you like the convenience and purchase protection of buying from an online source like Ebay, bottles of Verve scents sell for very moderate prices (around $35 dollars). <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cplLEeS9y8/TZdhGSTUpuI/AAAAAAAAB-c/aOGhpMfkSO8/s1600/839015693_8d0a7b7717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cplLEeS9y8/TZdhGSTUpuI/AAAAAAAAB-c/aOGhpMfkSO8/s400/839015693_8d0a7b7717.jpg" width="295" /></a></div><br />
I wasn't sure how good this scent would be given that the look of it is on the cheap, no-frills side but my fears were unfounded. While Mist of Spring is one of the less common Verve fragrances, it turns out to be is a perfectly lovely spring scent which opens up as a delicate but delectable hyacinth-iris scented cloud. Gentle touches of something like a diluted jasmine incense underline the misty quality of the scent. Everything settles down relatively early as it resolves into a gentle, clean herbal musk. At this stage it smells very similar to the old dark green Clairol herbal essence shampoo. If you recall the scent of this shampoo, it has become something of a Holy Grail, scent-fetish of mine. I'm always looking for a perfume dupe for it. But the finish of Verve Mist of Spring is super light. Overall, its not nearly as intense as I want it to be and for a hard-core perfume junkie, it's something of a frustrating tease. I love the notes but would probably need to huff a pure concrete of this scent in order to get much satisfaction from it. However, there are many fans of light scents who might find Verve to be a nearly perfect form of vintage perfume nirvana.<br />
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Note: Prince Matchabelli released a 1930s perfume called Verve but only the name was borrowed for the 1960s, not the scent.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">image: Iris by Caroll Thayer Berry</span><br />
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</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-5000199691555721962011-04-01T07:07:00.000-07:002011-04-01T07:07:24.522-07:00SOTD: Fleur d'Interdit<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hxvP0JiYPdw/TZXbtYatMTI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/3nxIpRXgLFg/s1600/givenchy19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hxvP0JiYPdw/TZXbtYatMTI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/3nxIpRXgLFg/s320/givenchy19.jpg" width="229" /></a></div><br />
Spring is on in a big way- suddenly we're surrounded by lilacs, cherry blossoms, the amaryllis is getting ready to burst forth it's show of fiery blooms- just too wonderful. But time has prevented me posting here (or reading elsewhere)- but all that should change this weekend... In the meantime, just one spritz of the [original, amber] Fleur d'Interdit (1996) by <a href="http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Givenchy/Fleur-d-Interdit-1961.html">Givenchy</a>. The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-50558237778005722502011-03-27T13:27:00.000-07:002011-04-02T06:54:56.119-07:00The Faces of Givenchy L'Interdit<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FNRwzyHzmfE/TY-ZfbKZjMI/AAAAAAAAB-U/-2HBj9GXuKc/s1600/audrey%252Chepburn%252Cblack%252Cand%252Cwhite%252Clegend%252Cportrait%252Cblack%252C%252C%252Cwhite%252Cphotography-c499c54ee1a02f04e97e6803e4184db3_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FNRwzyHzmfE/TY-ZfbKZjMI/AAAAAAAAB-U/-2HBj9GXuKc/s320/audrey%252Chepburn%252Cblack%252Cand%252Cwhite%252Clegend%252Cportrait%252Cblack%252C%252C%252Cwhite%252Cphotography-c499c54ee1a02f04e97e6803e4184db3_h.jpg" width="218" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
If you are intrigued by the thought of smelling as forbidden, as pure and austerely beautiful as Audrey Hepburn, then you should know which scent to buy. L'Interdit, the scent Givenchy had created expressly for Herpburn, has been released in three distinct versions.<br />
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Hubert de Givenchy commissioned Francis Fabron to create L'Interdit for Audrey in 1957. Does that make L'Interdit the first celebrity fragrance of modern times? While many perfumes are touted as the first celebrity fragrance, this scent lays rightful claim to ownership of the title. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Wn3bn_UJyII/TYYH3Gm3zZI/AAAAAAAAB7k/Y8M0ZvYg3x8/s1600/linterdit1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Wn3bn_UJyII/TYYH3Gm3zZI/AAAAAAAAB7k/Y8M0ZvYg3x8/s1600/linterdit1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Above is the original L'Interdit from 1957. I have this version in my collection but the juice has not aged gracefully. I've heard there was a unique strawberry note wrapped up in L'Interdit but it is not apparent to my nose. I'm afraid all of the fruity top notes have all but vanished from both of the vintage examples I've encountered. But based on what I do smell, 1957 L'Interdit is the nearly twin, but more respectable, sister of Chanel No 5. If you took the upper and middle register of Chanel No 5- all the lovely aldehydic touches and the effulgent floral notes and threw them over a white-washed base, you'd have something like L'Interdit. Where No 5 offers a smoldering embrace, L'Interdit uses a light caress. The intoxicating foxy musk and civet touches that give the Chanel such luster have been replaced by refined sensations: the scent of amber scented French soap, the creaminess of the lather it creates when mixed with water on skin and the light musk of fresh cleaned skin, are used to achieve the seduction of L'Interdit.<br />
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In 2002, L'Interdit was brought back with a reinterpreted formula (noses: Jean Guichard and Olivier Gillotin) and a new look, shown above. I like the red label and gold top/gold neck band; otherwise it is identical to the older bottle, which had instead a gold foil label, a silver top/glass-neck combination. Many customers complained about this reformulation but I must confess to liking it well enough when it was first released. It struck me as a light and pretty fruity floral with leanings towards Estee Lauder's Beautiful, but done in a much sheerer style. Ultimately it failed to move me and has been ignored in a dark corner of the vault for the past several years. Such a sad fate for a scent whose only aim is to sparkle and enchant. A cross between strawberry lemonade and strawberry shampoo, the 2003 L'Interdit could have made a fine first perfume for a young girl. It's especially well suited to the mild days of spring and early summer.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Olx6f9z8LFs/TY-Wyy6OAxI/AAAAAAAAB-M/hlvWEMaxwCI/s1600/audry_hepburn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Olx6f9z8LFs/TY-Wyy6OAxI/AAAAAAAAB-M/hlvWEMaxwCI/s320/audry_hepburn.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Flagging sales and Givenchy's efforts to recapture history in the form of their best selling fragrances necessitated another shift for L'Interdit. In 2007, Bernard Arnault was tasked with recreating the scent for Givenchy. L'Interdit joined the Les Mythiques line where Givenchy has released new versions of all of their most widely sought-after discontinued scents (Organza Indecense, Givenchy III, Le De etc...). The feminine fragrances of the Les Mythiques line are all clad in lavender packaging as seen below.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SdmfLFA6KMI/TYZUotF4H6I/AAAAAAAAB78/Aih5TbUeScU/s1600/nd.1975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SdmfLFA6KMI/TYZUotF4H6I/AAAAAAAAB78/Aih5TbUeScU/s1600/nd.1975.jpg" /></a></div>The 2007 formula for L'Interdit is a throw back to the style of the 1957 original. The new L'Interdit is a powdery, spicy floral featuring, "red current, Bulgarian Rose and a touch of musk and incense". While I continue to prefer Chanel No 5, I believe this version of L'Interdit is the most reliable and smells nearest to the spirit of the original, making it the one I'd choose for all my 'Audrey' moments.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-46513699036894553592011-03-25T06:04:00.000-07:002011-03-25T16:32:05.656-07:00SOTD: Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_9ei5JGV04I/TYyLX5niJVI/AAAAAAAAB98/RKrCL0qbK2Q/s1600/Lizt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_9ei5JGV04I/TYyLX5niJVI/AAAAAAAAB98/RKrCL0qbK2Q/s320/Lizt.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><br />
Released in 1996, Black Pearls isn't everyone's cup of tea. Maybe that fits with the story I heard- namely that Liz had BPs made specifically for herself. <br />
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Black Pearls notes: <br />
Top: bergamot, peach, lotus, water lily<br />
Heart: gardenia, lilac, white rose, jasmine <br />
Base: spices, sandalwood, vanilla<br />
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Black Pearls had been discontinued but it has re-appeared en mass at online retailers, having been poorly reformulated (by who knows). The injection of heavy elements- syrupy fruit and amber by all accounts did not improve the fragrance. The new version has not been well received by most reviewers over at MUA and Fragrantica although I don't believe the original sold very well, either. Watery florals can be tricky- (edit: melon fruit/water flowers on top of woody oriental base).<br />
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I have a 1996 bottle of the pure perfume and find it beautiful, delicate and unique thanks to the succulent water flowers, restrained use of fruit notes and a well balanced base of wood, vanilla and spice. Worth seeking out, if you've the patience to look for a bottle of the older formula. Don't quote me, but I think I recall the older bottles (except the parfum) looked similar to the columnar style used for White Diamonds....<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-60978062903232492002011-03-24T21:34:00.000-07:002011-03-24T21:36:16.153-07:00Remembering Liz<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dVmkaW7KwWw/TYwWz7t40TI/AAAAAAAAB9o/-MBeKncxKOg/s1600/taylor10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dVmkaW7KwWw/TYwWz7t40TI/AAAAAAAAB9o/-MBeKncxKOg/s320/taylor10.jpg" width="253" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A50nfDqWVhw/TYwVAi7GGDI/AAAAAAAAB9U/QfdLyWzLzVQ/s1600/elizabeth-taylor-sexy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A50nfDqWVhw/TYwVAi7GGDI/AAAAAAAAB9U/QfdLyWzLzVQ/s320/elizabeth-taylor-sexy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CJjW_8o8j8M/TYwVlaFED7I/AAAAAAAAB9Y/1Kw541XG8gU/s1600/liz-taylor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CJjW_8o8j8M/TYwVlaFED7I/AAAAAAAAB9Y/1Kw541XG8gU/s320/liz-taylor.jpg" width="253" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tx6UnVfbXBc/TYwWhF5_LMI/AAAAAAAAB9k/TVAVvHxC5aE/s1600/elizabeth-taylor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tx6UnVfbXBc/TYwWhF5_LMI/AAAAAAAAB9k/TVAVvHxC5aE/s320/elizabeth-taylor.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cHl2YdxaJtU/TYwY0aowL8I/AAAAAAAAB90/COz3e-Hl-RY/s1600/elizabethtaylor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cHl2YdxaJtU/TYwY0aowL8I/AAAAAAAAB90/COz3e-Hl-RY/s1600/elizabethtaylor.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OuXvWMnv6uM/TYwWUhYkIjI/AAAAAAAAB9g/maGBqhYul1I/s1600/Liz-Taylor-elizabeth-taylor-6129447-560-487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OuXvWMnv6uM/TYwWUhYkIjI/AAAAAAAAB9g/maGBqhYul1I/s320/Liz-Taylor-elizabeth-taylor-6129447-560-487.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-799940760831451672011-03-24T05:31:00.000-07:002011-03-24T05:31:06.809-07:00SOTD: Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Glh8vzfnFIw/TYs2ZZb-WeI/AAAAAAAAB9M/Q4wMkZj5c3c/s1600/geoffrey+beene7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Glh8vzfnFIw/TYs2ZZb-WeI/AAAAAAAAB9M/Q4wMkZj5c3c/s320/geoffrey+beene7.jpg" width="246" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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No more experimenting with my skin! I'm back to vintage this morning and wearing Geoffrey Beene's Grey Flannel. Released in 1975, it's a wet/dry green violet with many subtle shades and tones thanks to a complex formula that marries woody, oriental and floral forms. Perfectly suited to cold and rainy spring days, this scent was made for men although I find it's one of the most wearable violet scents in my arsenal. Sillage and longevity are excellent! Some folks complain about the modern reformulations. My bottle is from a few years back- the label is stamped with maker 'Jacqueline Cochran, New York'.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y_RdOHiWbD0/TYs2TgOPXtI/AAAAAAAAB9I/Y7PjmJWz1VQ/s1600/Violets6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y_RdOHiWbD0/TYs2TgOPXtI/AAAAAAAAB9I/Y7PjmJWz1VQ/s320/Violets6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-69770409631354707252011-03-23T06:35:00.000-07:002011-03-23T07:26:31.634-07:00SOTD PureDistance 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--ZsD9nbxFCI/TYn1l84vycI/AAAAAAAAB9E/7dElYtNBdUU/s1600/Hard_rain_by_gilad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--ZsD9nbxFCI/TYn1l84vycI/AAAAAAAAB9E/7dElYtNBdUU/s320/Hard_rain_by_gilad.jpg" width="219" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Hard Rain by Gilad</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Not that they don't deserve the attention- thanks to Suzanne I've been sniffing all three current releases and feel quite impressed with the trio from PureDistance. I've been seeing a ton of coverage for them in the blog-o-sphere, how about you?? Not vintage, but of such quality that they are destined to be collected by vintage perfume perfume lovers of the future...<br />
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Today, it's PureDistance1 for me as I'm seeking serious shelter from the storms of NoCal today. The poor cherries are going to be toast this season as Mother Nature is certainly being fickle.<br />
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btw: <strike>Another recent SOTD, Chantelle's Eau de Desir, reminds me of PureDistance1 quite a bit; </strike> PureDistance 1 is a changeling- today in the cold and windy rain, it's clear green and citrus nature comes to the fore- gone are any cumin-y, plummy aspects of my first dabbings...<br />
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I haven't given PD1 a full day's wear before so I'm interested to see how it goes...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-224NtXSn_AU/TYn1Je6MitI/AAAAAAAAB9A/vHJ4SxoYxQE/s1600/bobdylanhardraintxtxs0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-224NtXSn_AU/TYn1Je6MitI/AAAAAAAAB9A/vHJ4SxoYxQE/s320/bobdylanhardraintxtxs0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-68395076254004389532011-03-22T05:41:00.000-07:002011-03-22T07:07:32.504-07:00SOTD: Fath de Fath<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Qi6ctdgKqSE/TYiYY4_0-BI/AAAAAAAAB84/WNoBps3fkrg/s1600/Jacques+Fath.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Qi6ctdgKqSE/TYiYY4_0-BI/AAAAAAAAB84/WNoBps3fkrg/s400/Jacques+Fath.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Go to <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?client=tmpg&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fperfumesbighouse.blogspot.com%2F2010%2F06%2Fdeparei-me-com-o-o-frasco-adoravel-por.html&langpair=pt%7Cen">Perfumes Bighouse</a> to read a splendid review of FdF and see all the olfactory information (I've written about it before, too). Suffice to say, Fath de Fath (1953) is a sharp yet soft snuggle-worthy oriental scent perfect for braving the unseasonal cold and wet of Northern California today.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fhWIn8qubDA/TYiYgH2W0oI/AAAAAAAAB88/INcsHJlrszw/s1600/Perfumes+Fath+de+Fath.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fhWIn8qubDA/TYiYgH2W0oI/AAAAAAAAB88/INcsHJlrszw/s320/Perfumes+Fath+de+Fath.jpg" width="226" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
Take care, darlings, and enjoy whatever it is that you're wearing! <br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-50235089367216294432011-03-20T20:58:00.000-07:002011-03-20T21:03:23.729-07:00New Vintage Perfume Blog...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JQ-BgaJhHY4/TYbMfduWMwI/AAAAAAAAB80/QZA-W_zv-pQ/s1600/cp06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JQ-BgaJhHY4/TYbMfduWMwI/AAAAAAAAB80/QZA-W_zv-pQ/s320/cp06.jpg" width="234" /></a></div><br />
We're growing...Please go check out the<a href="http://perfumefountain.wordpress.com/"> Perfume Fountain</a>, a new vintage perfume blog!<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-65011313522799911442011-03-20T18:01:00.000-07:002011-03-20T20:00:58.482-07:00Vintage Perfume Posters<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bc1LROwiHL4/TYagwjyHU7I/AAAAAAAAB8A/D6TW6_0dOIs/s1600/Harlequin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bc1LROwiHL4/TYagwjyHU7I/AAAAAAAAB8A/D6TW6_0dOIs/s400/Harlequin.JPG" width="301" /></a></div><br />
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Happy vintage perfume dreamin'!<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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images: collected from assorted EBay sellers, google image search<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-32159286870016253842011-03-19T13:38:00.000-07:002011-03-26T10:01:48.704-07:00SOTD: Chantelle Beaute Eau de Desir<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OOCKS8E7OyQ/TYUKYkkceCI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/ds9XB604Zzs/s1600/tumblr_lgjb43JPyY1qa70eyo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OOCKS8E7OyQ/TYUKYkkceCI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/ds9XB604Zzs/s400/tumblr_lgjb43JPyY1qa70eyo1_500.jpg" width="285" /></a></div><br />
NOTE: edited 3/26/11-<br />
Today I'm wearing the lovely <i>Eau de Desir </i>or <i>EdD</i> (2008) from nose <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.motamot.com/annuaire/wEfOwErYcA-thierry-delphine-creatrice-de-parfums--parfumeur-freelance.html&ei=_hmOTd38KIW-sAPy3Mn_CA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CFsQ7gEwCDgK&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dchantelle%2Beau%2Bde%2Bdesir%26start%3D10%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DNGs%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26prmd%3Divns">Delphine Thierry.</a> <i>EdD </i>has a strongly appealing retro vibe. It comes to us from Chantelle Beaute, the cosmetics line for Chantelle Lingerie (18. Eau de Desire is one of a line of four scents although I haven't tried any of the other fragrances. It was originally written about online by The Scented Salamander <a href="http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/02/chantelle_eau_de_desir_eau_sen.html#more">here</a>. <br />
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Eau de Desir has been around for <strike>a couple of</strike> several years but with distribution limited to brick and mortar Chantelle retail locations; frustratingly, you can't seem to purchase it anywhere at all online. <a href="http://www.carre-senart.com/W/do/centre/fiche-boutique-CHANTELLE">Chantelle Carré Sénart</a> has been mentioned specifically as carrying the line so if you know someone who lives nearby, perhaps you can have it sent to you. Otherwise, chances are slim of finding it here in USA. Despite this limitation, Eau de Desir has already gained a cult-like following of admirers looking to re-purchase it.<br />
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From The Scented Salamander:<br />
<blockquote><b><i><span style="color: #cc0000; font-weight: normal;">Eau de Désir</span></i> </b>is symbolized by red and announces an universe of "<i>daring seduction</i>". The perfume is described as a gourmand and sensual fragrance. Top notes are fruity with notes of yellow plum (mirabelle) and mandarine followed by a tender core including notes of chocolate, incense, rose, benzoin, and cumin. Base notes are amber, patchouli, cedar, and a soft vanilla....</blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AD_lI9td2mM/TYUKzWwAqYI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/6z0oZrOSIeY/s1600/tumblr_lfrppp4IOs1qbqtleo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AD_lI9td2mM/TYUKzWwAqYI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/6z0oZrOSIeY/s400/tumblr_lfrppp4IOs1qbqtleo1_500.jpg" width="311" /></a></div><br />
(edit: I have since found alternative note list featuring jasmine and I smell jasmine prominently.) I nearly passed on this scent- having tested it, I promptly smelled the chocolate and musk, thought about Musc Maori and rejected it as being too similar to MM to merit much attention. But within probably 30 minutes, the plum began to assert itself and the base notes began their seduction. Within two hours, I'd actually made my way back to the store to purchase it; I haven't looked back since. Honestly, I get a gentle thrill each time I apply it, waiting for the perfectly ripe plum to make it's appearance. Set against the cradle of smooth rich chocolate and benzoin/incense, the plum is just perfect- dusted with the lightest touch of spices. I do not smell the cumin at all- just a succulent, spiced plum, kissed with jasmine, <strike>rose</strike>, amber, patchouli and cashmeran soft touches of cedar wood.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TViwkGICKjE/TYUUNwkNaZI/AAAAAAAAB7c/BqhROUA_w60/s1600/8-ACJ-Dove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TViwkGICKjE/TYUUNwkNaZI/AAAAAAAAB7c/BqhROUA_w60/s320/8-ACJ-Dove.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Billy Dove</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The eau de parfum wears like a very feminine rose-powder boudoir scent that's been fluffed up with plenty of skin-loving musks. I usually like plum in perfumes. Here it reminds me a bit of Marcel Rochas' Femme but this one is far more tender than that perfume. Patchouli, cedar, vanilla, amber form the delectable gourmand-oriental base, while incense, cumin and benzoin give it a Middle Eastern flavor. Eau de Desir combines relaxing scents associated with cosmetics and toilet rituals, pairing them with those used in seduction, to create a lovely, diffusive scent that is as perfect for date night as it is for a comforting bed-time, after bath scent.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<br />
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images: pulled from tumblr search (red desire)<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-85115902240513629952011-03-18T08:55:00.000-07:002011-03-19T11:50:05.059-07:00Perfume Review: Jean Couturier Coriandre<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kDedWtBLr2U/TYNtp-JmfuI/AAAAAAAAB6w/9eH6z_z0kkE/s1600/mia+farrow+roddy+mcdowall+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kDedWtBLr2U/TYNtp-JmfuI/AAAAAAAAB6w/9eH6z_z0kkE/s400/mia+farrow+roddy+mcdowall+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mia Farrow by Roddy McDowall</span></div><br />
If you read yesterday you already know that I choose to wear Coriandre for St. Patrick's Day. But I'd forgotten how stunning this unusual perfume is!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r-FrDziB2RE/TYNzjkszrMI/AAAAAAAAB64/ygm17ctqrKc/s1600/Britt+Ekland+1974_thumb%255B2%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r-FrDziB2RE/TYNzjkszrMI/AAAAAAAAB64/ygm17ctqrKc/s320/Britt+Ekland+1974_thumb%255B2%255D.jpg" width="318" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Brit Ekland </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Released in 1973 by Jean Couturier, Coriandre is a rosey-herbal chypre that stands out for it's uniqueness. A quirky blend of green notes, playing up wood and floral aspects of the spice Coriander, the tone is deceptively light. As sheer and transparent as any scent I have, it plays coming and going tricks with you and sticks around forever. The aldehydes and orange blossom of its opening segue directly into a floral heart dominated by rose, lily of the valley and geranium. Geranium lends a leafy, prickly lemon-green giving the scent a garden freshness. The lily of the valley picks up the lighter rose notes giving the scent a high pitch and nice lift. The floral character of the scent is reminiscent of buds and early blossoms still tinged with green. The bouquet is anchored with the vegetal muskiness and sharp spice of angelica and violet roots.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zXtakuwSrfg/TYN2NXCeZyI/AAAAAAAAB7E/sdZTtgHu6Vk/s1600/JaneBirkin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zXtakuwSrfg/TYN2NXCeZyI/AAAAAAAAB7E/sdZTtgHu6Vk/s1600/JaneBirkin.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Jane Birkin</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pKpDRxR0VFU/TYNzOg6KZdI/AAAAAAAAB60/UzrQbEd4rNY/s1600/Coriander02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>Coriander is the star of this scent- warm, vaguely nutty, spicy and citrus in flavor, coriander is technically made of the dried, crushed fruits of Cilantro or Chinese Parsley. The seeds pods of this plant are packed with linalool and pinene, which give this spice it's characteristic lemon/orange flavor. Traditionally coriander is combined with cumin in Marsala and Indian curries; I add it to spice cake, pumpkin pie and the like. The light citrus and floral nuances add a delicately spicy, slightly orange-rose tone to baked goods. In Russia, coriander is sometimes used instead of rye as a flavoring in their hearty breads. EDIT: People who don't like Coriandre invariably object to the coriander. I wonder if there is any relationship between those who don't like coriander and those who perceive cilantro as having a soapy or rank taste? Cumin is commonly paired with coriander in Indian curries and some people report coriander smells like cumin but I don't find the two similar. <br />
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The transparency of Coriandre really shines in the base where sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver are the stars of this modern, light green chypre scent. The warm, sultry sandalwood compliments a leafy-green patchouli and grassy vetiver. Clean white musk ties the base together, and adds a smooth and radiant finish. Any civet in this scent is far hidden from my nose and must be included only for its subliminal effects.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LC_T_LmcnCo/TYN5AgadF0I/AAAAAAAAB7M/3doW-ahEmUM/s1600/twiggy_green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LC_T_LmcnCo/TYN5AgadF0I/AAAAAAAAB7M/3doW-ahEmUM/s320/twiggy_green.jpg" width="203" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Twiggy</span></div><br />
Coriandre smells modern, fresh, young, and optimistic with a boundless energy and enthusiasm. It is green yet spicy but light- breezy and flirty without being fruity or overtly sweet. Not an easy wear for everyone, it must interact very differently with an individual's skin chemistry. When it works, it's as sweet and happy as the first breath of fresh spring air.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FqRuf4Gk_2Y/TYN3KpSX2rI/AAAAAAAAB7I/2c5xvU2GQR4/s1600/65.+FAYE+DUNAWAY+%25281967%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FqRuf4Gk_2Y/TYN3KpSX2rI/AAAAAAAAB7I/2c5xvU2GQR4/s1600/65.+FAYE+DUNAWAY+%25281967%2529.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Faye Dunaway</span></div><br />
Top notes: aldehydes, coriander, orange blossom and angelica;<br />
Middle notes: violet root, lily, jasmine, rose and geranium;<br />
Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss and vetiver.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YKZ1SjdkC6Y/TYNz2v5x0LI/AAAAAAAAB68/KmMAhJ1PYB4/s1600/coriandre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YKZ1SjdkC6Y/TYNz2v5x0LI/AAAAAAAAB68/KmMAhJ1PYB4/s1600/coriandre.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I have a mini of the pure parfum and a 1 ounce spray edt, both light in color. The malachite style box of the edt isn't dated , but the center badge is white, not gold, as is the juice. There is a sparsity of text and lack of bar codes on the box which reads:<br />
<blockquote>Ingredients: Ethyl alcohol (A) Demineralized water (E) Fragrance (D) Colorings: none/ Parfums/ Jean Couturier/ 75008 Paris/ 30 ml - 90% volume - 1 fl oz.</blockquote>Both the parfum and edt smell very similar, the perfume wears a little greener, the edt has more of the rose/powdery aspect.; they layer very well for those seeking a full wearing experience.<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3011840457872911681.post-28985910168846058992011-03-17T07:41:00.000-07:002011-03-17T14:40:58.595-07:00Green Perfumes- Happy Saint Patrick's Day from the Vault!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MOgTe7LNPX8/TYJ_lMJKp-I/AAAAAAAAB6o/omtoiQyA634/s1600/20110316_5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MOgTe7LNPX8/TYJ_lMJKp-I/AAAAAAAAB6o/omtoiQyA634/s320/20110316_5.JPG" width="235" /></a></div>Spring's first mushrooms are popping up in our lawn.... must be time for some green perfumes!<br />
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The oldest 'famous' green scent is Houbigant's Fougere Royal, released in 1882.<br />
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In 1921 Francoise Coty gave us his smoldering rendition in green- Emeraude... <br />
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Pierre Balmain released the green genie that is Vent Vert in 1945.<br />
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And Diorella made 1972 memorable with it's unrestrained green exuberance...<br />
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EDIT: I'm wearing the spicy complex green chypre Coriandre (1973). With top notes of<br />
aldehydes, coriander, orange blossom and angelica; middle notes of violet root, lily, jasmine, rose and geranium; and base notes of sandalwood, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss and vetiver, you might think it heavy, but it's not. The pure parfum is the palest straw color. The scent is deceptively light and transparent but lasting with very decent sillage to boot. The pure perfume and edt are both 'under the radar classics' in my book. <br />
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Whatever your favorite vintage green is, wear it today in good health. Happy St. Patrick's Day to all from the Vintage Vault!<br />
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The Vintage Perfume Vault, where the scent of yesterday's vogue lives.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Not just another nose, the last of the vintage vogue.</div>Ameliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05294910261057194511noreply@blogger.com6